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A preparation course for those with limited rope work and glacier experience who plan to do the AIMG Jökla 1 assessment course. Prior outdoor experience is required. 

Next courses:



Group size:





3 days.

Maximum 6 per instructor. 4 participants required to run the course.

75.000 ISK per person.

Course Goals

Participants will have an understanding of the basic ropework, gain familiarity with the most commonly used gear for glacier travel, and a basic understanding of how glaciers work. Participants will have a good foundation to attend the AIMG Jökla 1 assessment course.

Topics covered include:

  • Basic glaciology.

  • Common glacier equipment.

  • Common knots.

  • Crampon techniques.

  • Anchor building on ice.

  • Descending and ascending a rope.

  • Pulley systems.

  • Crevasse rescue.

  • Setting up a top rope for ice climbing

  • Basic ice climbing technique

Notice: Although this is an entry level course, it is aimed at those who plan to progress into the guiding world. Thus, prior experience in the outdoors is highly recommended. This course does not award any certification, but is provides a good foundation for courses such as the AIMG Jökla 1.


Course Details

The course runs for three days and is a combination of lectures, instructor demonstrations, workshops and exercises. Feedback is given throughout the course.

The days start with a morning meeting indoors before heading out on the outlet glaciers of Öræfajökull. 

In case of extreme weather conditions, we have the option of doing more indoor workshops for rope skills etc.

The course is held in Öræfi, in the South-East of Iceland. Lambhagi in Svínafell will be the base for lectures and indoor practices. The outlet glaciers of Öræfi will be used for outdoor activities on ice. Outlets will be chosen based on weather, conditions, and accessibility. Other locations may be added, and, if so, they will be presented to the group in advance.


Personal equipment required

  • Outdoor clothing suitable for variable weather and temperatures.

  • Good hiking boots suitable to wear with crampons.

  • Good clothes and boots are vital on this course. Check out our equipment recommendations!

  • Sunglasses.

  • A warm hat and a cap.

  • A backpack for your personal belongings and technical gear. 

  • Thick and thin gloves. 

  • Water bottles, minimum 2L.

  • Lunch and snacks for the day.

  • Notebook and pencil. Rite in the rain are nice for outdoor use.


Technical equipment

The following is the required minimum:

  • Harness with gear loops

  • Crampons

  • Helmet

  • Ice axe

  • Carabiners (minimum 8,  of which at least 6 should be locking)

  • Belay device with "guide mode" (e.g. BD ATC or Petzl Reverso)

  • 2x 120cm slings or 1x120cm and 1x180cm sling

  • 2x 5-6m 6-7mm accessory cord (prussik)

  • 1x 1.7-2m 6-7mm accessory cord or pre-sown prussiks

  • 2x 16+cm Ice screws

  • 40+m 8+mm static rope or 8.5+mm dynamic rope

  • 1x MicroTraxion or similar

  • 1-2x Pulleys (optional) 



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